Building EXCEPTIONAL speakers using MODERN TECHNIQUES
3D printed speakers can sound so good! Ad: Get an exclusive NordVPN deal here
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Want to build these speakers for your own gaming or TV setup? The 3D printable files are available for $29.99 - https://payhip.com/b/PWMab
Parts list:
(Note that some links may earn me a commission if you purchase an item through them)
Subwoofer: Tang Band W3-1876S
USA: https://www.parts-express.com/Tang-Band-W3-1876S-3-Mini-Subwoofer-264-909
EU: https://rkn3.net/c/?si=14570&li=1627332&wi=363790&dl=en%2Ftang-band-w3-1876s.html
Midtone Driver: Tang Band W3-1364SA
USA: https://www.parts-express.com/Tang-Band-W3-1364SA-3-Bamboo-Cone-Driver-264-844
EU: https://rkn3.net/c/?si=14570&li=1627332&wi=363790&dl=en%2Ftang-band-w3-1364sa.html
Digital Signal Processor:
https://ebay.us/i8U1fC
Amplifier:
https://ebay.us/ZWlpBh
TWEETERS are optional, as the midtone driver + DSP sounds great on its own, but for the best quality a good budget tweeter is the SB Acoustics SB26STCN, which is my favourite overall due to its pricing, but a premium option is a Scanspeak D2608/913000 Tweeter. It has a bit more ‘sparkle’ and refinement, but this will ONLY be appreciated if the final speakers are given a signal from a high-quality output source like a dedicated DAC.
If you want to print the baffles, the recommended magnet size is 10mm diameter round neodymium magnets, with 5mm depth maximum.
Fixtures and fittings:
40pcs M3 threaded inserts (for the speaker drivers)
40pcs 3mm x 8mm countersunk m3 black screws (for the speaker drivers)
200pcs Self-tapping 2mm diameter screws, 10mm length max (build platform screws)
24pcs 3mm diameter self-tapping screws (amplifier screws, DSP chamber, midtone chamber base)
2x step-down voltage regulators, 5v output (for powering the DSP and fan)
2x 1000uf capacitor (add across the output of the regulator to reduce interference)
2x Power Adapters (100w ideally, each. A low cost option is old laptop power adapters)
1x roll of 16awg wire
Recommended glue is CT1 - it sticks to PLA well enough and doesn't set too quickly allowing the whole speaker to be screwed together before it begins to dry. This allows any spill over to be wiped away (use an old brush to get inside the air guide etc). Sets with some amout of flexibility. Readily availabe in the UK but not sure about equivalents for other territories. Visit the Forum or Discord server to see what the community recommends for each region.
https://nordvpn.com/diyperksvpn it’s risk-free with Nord’s 30-day money-back
guarantee!
Want to build these speakers for your own gaming or TV setup? The 3D printable files are available for $29.99 - https://payhip.com/b/PWMab
Parts list:
(Note that some links may earn me a commission if you purchase an item through them)
Subwoofer: Tang Band W3-1876S
USA: https://www.parts-express.com/Tang-Band-W3-1876S-3-Mini-Subwoofer-264-909
EU: https://rkn3.net/c/?si=14570&li=1627332&wi=363790&dl=en%2Ftang-band-w3-1876s.html
Midtone Driver: Tang Band W3-1364SA
USA: https://www.parts-express.com/Tang-Band-W3-1364SA-3-Bamboo-Cone-Driver-264-844
EU: https://rkn3.net/c/?si=14570&li=1627332&wi=363790&dl=en%2Ftang-band-w3-1364sa.html
Digital Signal Processor:
https://ebay.us/i8U1fC
Amplifier:
https://ebay.us/ZWlpBh
TWEETERS are optional, as the midtone driver + DSP sounds great on its own, but for the best quality a good budget tweeter is the SB Acoustics SB26STCN, which is my favourite overall due to its pricing, but a premium option is a Scanspeak D2608/913000 Tweeter. It has a bit more ‘sparkle’ and refinement, but this will ONLY be appreciated if the final speakers are given a signal from a high-quality output source like a dedicated DAC.
If you want to print the baffles, the recommended magnet size is 10mm diameter round neodymium magnets, with 5mm depth maximum.
Fixtures and fittings:
40pcs M3 threaded inserts (for the speaker drivers)
40pcs 3mm x 8mm countersunk m3 black screws (for the speaker drivers)
200pcs Self-tapping 2mm diameter screws, 10mm length max (build platform screws)
24pcs 3mm diameter self-tapping screws (amplifier screws, DSP chamber, midtone chamber base)
2x step-down voltage regulators, 5v output (for powering the DSP and fan)
2x 1000uf capacitor (add across the output of the regulator to reduce interference)
2x Power Adapters (100w ideally, each. A low cost option is old laptop power adapters)
1x roll of 16awg wire
Recommended glue is CT1 - it sticks to PLA well enough and doesn't set too quickly allowing the whole speaker to be screwed together before it begins to dry. This allows any spill over to be wiped away (use an old brush to get inside the air guide etc). Sets with some amout of flexibility. Readily availabe in the UK but not sure about equivalents for other territories. Visit the Forum or Discord server to see what the community recommends for each region.
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